If you could be in love with a city, it would be Montpellier for me. I could write an entire blog just about Montpellier if I lived there. The instant Mediterranean vibe, the historical centre with its narrow streets, the numerous, cosy squares hosting the best terraces, the countless cool restaurants and bars, the new architectural gems, and so much more. On top of that, you’re at the beach in a flash. I love it!
Majestic arc
Somehow, I always enter Montpellier via the majestic Arc de Triomphe. Not a bad way to start your Montpellier visit. The Arc de Triomphe dates back to 1691, when it was built to honour the Sun King Louis XIV. The arch is an extension of the Peyrou Promenade with its remarkable water tower and statue of Louis XIV mounted on a horse. On the other side of the water tower is the aqueduct dating from the 18th century. The terraces of Peyrou are well-known for the gorgeous view of the region, as far as the Pic Saint-Loup on clear days (pretty much always). Coming from the Arc de Triomphe, I automatically continue on the Rue Foch, the royal lane of Montpellier. After passing the Palais de Justice, another historic monument, you will find many high-end shops in Haussmannian-style buildings.
Unicorn
No shopping for me today; I prefer to start the day with a cup of tea on one of the lovely terraces in my favourite square, ‘Place de la Canourgue’. This is the oldest square in Montpellier and, as such, a beautiful haven of peace and tranquillity. It is exactly how I picture living in France: sipping my tea and eating a croissant under the rustle of the leaves while listening to the French surroundings. Aaaah, c’est beau la vie! Here, you will also find the Hotel Richer de Belleval. This unique townhouse has been brought back to life by the brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, along with Olivier Château. It now houses a hotel, the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Jardin des Sens, and the bistro La Canourgue.
Saint-Pierre Cathedral
Continuing my way on the square, I pass the Fountain of the Unicorns (Fontaine des Licornes), which used to appeal to my daughter’s imagination when she was little. This spot also gives me a gorgeous view of my next destination: the Saint-Pierre Cathedral. Walking to the cathedral always makes me feel like the clocks have stopped ticking. All of a sudden, the impressive cathedral rises in front of me. Saint-Pierre became a cathedral in 1536 after being the chapel for Saint Benedict’s monastery. It is the only medieval church that survived the Wars of Religion between 1562 and 1598. Two gigantic cylindrical pillars with a diameter of 4.5 meters mark the impressive portal at the main entrance. The facade goes very well with the clear blue sky in the background!
Labyrinth
Even though Montpellier is quite a big city, the 7th biggest in France, you will still find plenty of places where the crowds don’t go. I have visited the city countless times, but I still get lost in these quiet old streets in the historical centre, also known as L’Ecusson. I don’t mind though, as I always come across new things. This is also how I discovered ‘Le Quartier de l’Ancien Courrier’. Situated between Place Martyrs de la Résistance and Place Saint-Roch, this labyrinth within a labyrinth will lead you to unique shops and restaurants with teeny tiny terraces. Probably the most photographed street in Montpellier is a side street on the Rue de l’Ancien Courrier called Rue du Bras de Fer. The colourful steps and flags lead to an iron sign in the shape of an arm- bras de fer in French- holding a lantern. Can you spot it?
Meeting point
Finally, I arrived at Montpellier’s central meeting point: la Place de la Comédie. The most beautiful 19th-century buildings surround the square. One of the most eye-catching ones is the municipal theatre with its monumental façade. Hence the name of the square. The statue of the ‘Three Graces’ can’t be missed either. The one on the square is a replica, by the way. You will find the original statue of the Greek mythological women Aglaé, Euphrosine and Thalie in the lobby of the opera house. The great thing about this square is that no cars are allowed, like the entire historical centre. So, you can stroll around all you like, absorbing the bustling city life. Like I said before, life is good in the South of France. And even better in Montpellier!
