The historic centre of Pézenas has an unexpected and charming artistic vibe. Once the political capital of the Languedoc region and an important trading town, Pézenas has known great periods of prosperity. You can still visit many traditional artists and craftworkers. And, of course, you can follow in the footsteps of the famous French playwright and actor Molière. Second-hand treasure hunters will be in their element, too, as Pézenas has many antique shops.
Hôtel de Lacoste
If you would like to discover Pézenas at your own pace, I’d suggest starting with a visit to the Office de Tourisme and getting a (free) printed guide. It’s also available in English and gives a marked-out route around the town’s highlights. You can follow the long tour for about 2.5 hours or opt for the short version of about 1.5 hours. Starting just a few steps from Tourist Information, I followed the numbered arrows that indicate the route. The first monument on the tour is the Hôtel de Lacoste of the Montégut family on Rue François. You can even go into the courtyard of this 16th-century hotel and marvel at its rib-vaulted staircase while visiting one of the shops.
Maison Consulaire
Arriving at the Place Gambetta, the first building my eye was drawn to was the Maison Consulaire. This classified historic monument from the 17th century used to be a consular building. Now, it functions as a 300m2 art and crafts centre where 200 artists and craftworkers exhibit their work. It’s called La Maison des Métiers d’Art, and if you have the time it’s definitely worth having a peek inside (it’s closed on Mondays and Sundays). The square has some utterly picturesque corners, including climbing greenery along ancient facades, old-fashioned window shops, and beautiful signs.
Bougainvillaea
The route led me to the Hôtel de Peyrat on the Rue Montmorency with its two corbelled turrets. It’s one of my favourite spots in summer when an abundant flowering bougainvillaea covers the walls. The purple of the flowers just matches perfectly with the blue doors and windows. Following the road brought me to the enclosure of the feudal castle. This castle, first mentioned in historical records in 990, was completely destroyed in 1632. It cannot be visited anymore, although the family and I did enter the grounds a couple of years ago during a theatrical guided tour.
Maze
Via the Rue du Château and Rue de la Foire I went back into the city centre through a maze of little cobbled streets. Here I lost track a little, as the many delightful shops distracted me from my route… Through the Porte Faugères, one of the last remaining sections of the medieval town wall, I entered the Pézenas of the 17th and 18th centuries. From the Cours Jean Jaurès, with its many elegant facades, I walked to the fountain on the Place de la République and back into town again, skipping some points of interest (if you have the map in the guide, you’ll know what I mean). Altogether, the guide helped me to discover Pézenas in an informative and fun way. And, of course, I took some ‘Petit Paté de Pézenas’ back home, the locally and artisanally made shortcrust pastry.
