Vaison-la-Romaine is a charming town with a long history dating back to the Romans- and even before. I have previously written about the older part of the town, located at the Northern- lower- side (click here). In this post, I would like to take you to the Southern- upper- side of the Ouvèze River. Crossing the Roman bridge will transport you to the Middle Ages through narrow cobbled alleys and stone archways. On top of the hill, the Count’s Castle still overlooks the valley and Mont Ventoux.
Rocky hillock
By the time of the 12th century, most of the people lived around the cathedral west of the Roman settlement. The power of the Catholic Church was undeniable, to the dismay of the Counts of Toulouse. Vaison-la-Romaine’s Bishops and the Counts were constantly jealous and fought over who owned the town. This ongoing battle made the Counts decide to build a castle on the rocky hillock created by the Ouvèze River. Soon enough, the population moved to this higher part- Haute Ville- feeling protected by the fortified architecture. While private houses and public buildings were built constantly until the 18th century, a new place of worship completed the new town only in the course of the 15th century. A church was built on the remains of the 12th century chapel, enlarged to the Église Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-de-l’Assomption over three centuries.
Château Comtal
From the Roman bridge, you enter Vaison-la-Romaine’s mediaeval section which is pedestrian only. You just have to follow the Rue du Pont past some charming galleries and restaurants to the Rue de l’Horloge. The little cobbled stone streets led me automatically under the belfry tower to the Sainte-Marie-de-l’Assomption cathedral. The little square in front of it gave me a peak at the stunning surroundings. However, I aimed to get to the Château Comtal- the Counts’ castle dominating Vaison-la-Romaine from above. Climbing my way up made the castle’s unique protective position quite clear, as it literally has stood strong on the top of the rock for centuries. The castle itself is mostly in ruins and cannot be visited, as it has been abandoned for a long time, but it’s impressive to see this landmark from up close. And the panoramic view is definitely a bonus.
Place du Vieux Marché
Back on my way downwards, I passed an utterly picturesque square with a beautiful fountain. The sun played with the fallen autumn leaves when I found out this must be the Place du Vieux Marché. It used to be the main square in the heart of the Haute Ville and, therefore, was of great economic importance. I wonder if the ancient plane tree witnessed those bustling market days that ended in the 19th century when the population gradually moved to the valley. Although the mediaeval section has an entirely different vibe than the Roman part, it’s a lovely stroll equally drenched in history. And multi-faceted Vaison-la-Romaine was a surprising discovery that I highly recommend!
