Every month, I introduce you to an interesting woman living in Languedoc. Curious as I am, I like to find out why she lives in this beautiful region, what she does for a living, and some of her Languedoc favourites. Last summer, Jan Steele, also known as La Goose, invited my daughter and me for a blissful stay at her wonderful Bed and Breakfast in the Cévennes. It was just what we needed! After the gluten-free breakfast the next morning, we left completely reenergized. In this interview, you will read about Jan’s inspiring path to the South of France.
Introduction
My name is Jan Steele (a.k.a. La Goose). I’m Canadian, but have been living outside of Canada since 2003. Our most recent move was to the south of France in 2018. We’ve been putting down roots as a family ever since.
First Time Visiting the Region
We first discovered Montpellier (1) as part of a whirlwind ‘tour de France’ that we did one summer when the kids were really little, brainstorming where we might want to live someday. Up until that point, our only experience of France had been Paris… and I knew from the start that big city life is not for me. So, we did a quick tour of different cities throughout France before heading back overseas for a last posting. We agreed that the quality of life in Montpellier, with its large pedestrian zone, immediately appealed.
Settling in Languedoc
The following year, we purchased an apartment in the Écusson, which we rented while completing our last posting in Lebanon. When it came time to choose somewhere to settle, we decided to come back to this area. It was perfect to settle while managing the apartment as an Airbnb.
Landing near Ales, we toured all around the Cévennes looking at houses that were for sale. Ultimately, we landed in a river valley near Le Vigan… which is where we survived Covid. However, that house was not meant to be. So, after the first lockdown, we sold the Montpellier apartment to access a slightly bigger budget, and found the place that we now call home, in Cros (2).
La Goose
La Goose (3 & 4) is a 100% gluten-free teaching kitchen, connected to a 3-bedroom Bed & Breakfast. Quality gluten-free products are not easy to come by in France. Therefore, it is really rewarding to be able to provide a haven for people who have felt somewhat ostracised since their diagnosis. I was diagnosed with Celiac Disease as a small child, so I have absolutely no stigma about living gluten-free. Accordingly, I am a bit of a unicorn to restaurants and supermarkets because I have no problem requiring the same quality of product (and for a similar price). Currently, I am also renovating an outbuilding. It will allow me to have a professional kitchen from where I’ll be able to host more regular events, such as the Sunday Brunch.
Setting Up a Business in France
The administrative processes here in France are endlessly frustrating. There isn’t a lot of transparency, so you often feel like you’re guessing at knowing which documents need providing. Accordingly, paperwork always takes much longer than it should… I’m never entirely sure that I’ve managed to get all of my i’s dotted and all of my t’s crossed. As a Canadian, this is a constant source of frustration.
Living in the South of France
I thoroughly enjoy living in France with one important exception: the public school system. Having been a teacher in my first career, I knew that locating quality schooling was going to be a challenge. We managed fairly well in elementary school (although I take issue with the distance at which parents are typically kept). However, we had immediately bad experiences in Middle School and so chose to homeschool for several years. My eldest has now started Lycée, and I am already looking forward to the moment that both will be through with school, and all of the many headaches that it (unnecessarily, in my opinion) triggers.
That aside, the South of France is particularly lovely for several reasons. Firstly, the weather is unbeatable, allowing for lots of time spent outdoors and under the sky (i.e. my happy place). Here in the Cévennes (5), there is also a rich and very diverse culture that stems from the Protestant population that fought so hard to retain their right to exist. And so compared to Paris, I feel very comfortable here in spite of all of my many differences.
Best Languedoc Wine
When it comes to wine, I am not a huge connoisseur. However, we do make a point of getting to know the winemakers in our immediate vicinity (of which there are many). My favourite red is a wine called ‘Empreintes’ from a local vineyard in Montoulieu, La Terre des Deux Sources. As for whites, I very quickly fell in love with a wine from Saint-Jean-de-Vedas called ‘Le Comte Louis’ from Domaine Le Claud.
Favourite Restaurant
When it comes to restaurants, I admit that I haven’t been able to try as many as some. The restaurant experience for a person with Coeliac Disease is somewhat risky… especially since customer service is not necessarily a priority here in France. My ability to trust that I won’t be contaminated, therefore, is always a concern. I have had great experiences at La Réserve Rimbaud in Montpellier, and previously at La Diligence. However, dining out is not always an enjoyable experience, so we tend to do it less frequently and aim high when we do go out.
Perfect Day Out in Languedoc
For me, a perfect day out in Languedoc would be hiking in the Cévennes with our two donkeys, Kobane and Djembe (6). I’d make a nice picnic lunch in the morning, and we’d take off on one of the many beautiful trails that wind their way through these beautiful river valleys and up onto the crests of the mountains. At the end of the afternoon, we’d jump in the river to cool off, and then meander home to make a BBQ that we’d eat under the pergola, which overlooks the chickens by the creek.
