In France, fine wine and good food are often bracketed together. So, when a renowned wine estate decides to start a restaurant next to its wine cave, it’s a match made in heaven. Every summer- for nine years already- Domaine Sarrat de Goundy opens its ‘Table Vigneronne’. Imagine long tables filled with laughter, tinkling sounds of wine glasses, and romantically lit food while overlooking the vines or olive trees, and you’ll get the picture.
Full of character
Sarrat de Goundy is a wine estate in ‘La Clape’, the wine region between the Mediterranean Sea and Narbonne. This location creates wines full of character thanks to the marine winds and the almost always present sunshine. Claude and Rosy Calix founded the vineyard in 2000 and handed it over to their son Olivier a couple of years later. Since the beginning, some of the grapes are aged in handmade terracotta jars and ‘doliums’, terracotta tuns that can hold 950 litres. These big boys are almost the first things you see when entering the estate, proudly lined up on a robust concrete floor in front of a yellow-painted wall. And it’s exactly this combination of an ancient winemaking method with contemporary elements that set the tone for the rest of the domaine.
Drink of the Gods
Inside, the attention goes to the blue-tiled bar and shop section with local products in addition to Sarrat de Goundy’s wine collection. Outside, stone walls on one side and nature on the other encircle elegantly set tables. The outdoor kitchen includes a serious barbecue and is the domain of grillmasters Heinz and Marcelo from Uruguay. And young chef Amandine Divot draws up the sophisticated menu. Speaking of that, the ‘carte’ offers a three-course set menu for 47 euros. It can be preceded by ‘Pica-Pica’s’ (small shared dishes) ranging between 9 and 16 euros to enjoy with an aperitif. As you are joining a winemaker’s table, only their own wines are on the menu. But it’s an excellent way to taste Sarrat de Goundy’s drink of the Gods, and there’s plenty of choice. And- good to know- they do also shake some fine cocktails!
Jewel
The choice for a starter was easy, as there wasn’t any choice. Instead, Chéri and I received all three dishes meant to share, and so we did. The mackerel escabeche, the vitello tonnato, and the fried cassava were great appetisers. Chéri surprised me by choosing the fish of the day, as he usually chooses the meat option. Therefore, I had the grilled lamb saddle of lamb cooked at a low temperature and braised before being served. Both were a very good follow-up to the starter. By the time the dessert arrived, the night had fallen, which made the setting even more romantic. We ended our meal with Japanese pearl rice on a chaï espuma (Chéri) and a fantastic rhubarb creation (me). Although Chéri should know better by now, I had surprised him with yet another jewel of an address.
