Nîmes is the capital of the Gard department and has a rich history that dates back to the days of the Roman Empire. Many buildings have stood the test of time; some are even the best-preserved Roman monuments in France. Hence its nickname ‘French Rome’. This guide will help you to discover the highlights in a day. With enough time to sit and enjoy the sun at one of the many inviting terraces.
Crocodile
Nîmes was already an important city during the very early stages of the Roman Empire, then known as ‘Nemausus’. Ideally located on the ‘Via Domitia’, the town was on the Roman road that connected Italy with Spain. When walking through Nîmes, you can’t miss the city’s symbol: the crocodile, attached to a palm tree. This seems a bit weird, as crocodiles don’t exist in France. However, it can be explained by the Roman victory over Egypt in 31 BC. To celebrate this event, they created a special coin in Nîmes, illustrated with this crocodile design. In 1535, King François I officially declared the crocodile the town’s coat of arms. French architect and designer Philippe Starck then modernised the logo in 1986, and it still makes the inhabitants very proud.
Museum of Romanity and the arena
Back to the present… I like starting my tour at the Esplanade du Général de Gaulle as there is a (paid) parking lot underneath called Nîmes Arènes, and it’s at a walkable distance from the train station. Here, you can admire the Pradier Fountain, representing Nîmes with the Maison Carrée on her head, surrounded by the four waterways. Walking toward the arena, I soon enough spotted the edgy, contemporary building housing the Museum of Romanity. Located right opposite the two-thousand-year-old arena, it hosts an interesting Roman archaeological collection. The Nîmes arena itself can be visited too, including an interesting audio tour. It was built in the first century AD, inspired by the Colosseum in Rome. Compared to the one in Rome, this is a baby amphitheatre, though it is amongst the best-preserved ancient monuments in the world.
La Maison Carrée
To reach the next Roman monument of the day, I suggest strolling through the mediaeval city centre. Make sure not to miss the Place du Marché, the Place de l’Horloge with its bell tower, the Place aux Herbes and the Place d’Assas. You will find some great restaurants in one of these squares or the little streets nearby. And then, La Maison Carrée rises in front of you. This perfectly proportioned building of 26 meters long, 15 meters wide and 17 meters high is hard to overlook. La Maison Carrée is the only fully preserved Roman temple from the ancient world. Completely renovated in 2011, the impressive white building is strikingly beautiful. One tip for a restaurant with a fantastic view of La Maison Carrée is restaurant Ciel de Nîmes on the third (= last) floor of Le Carré d’Art, located opposite.
Les Jardins de la Fontaine
From La Maison Carrée, on to the last Roman monument of the day: ‘La Tour Magne’. This walk is a bit longer, about 20 minutes. However, as it takes you through the lush and leafy park ‘Les Jardins de la Fontaine‘, it feels like you arrive in the blink of an eye. This beautiful green space dates from the 18th century and is, in fact, one of the first public parks in Europe. Besides the many Mediterranean plants and trees, you will find some amazing fountains and a majestic staircase. And the remains of a Roman temple called La Temple de Diana. This ancient Roman temple was created in the first century BC and was part of an ‘Augusteum”, or a sanctuary dedicated to Nemausus and the imperial cult.
La Tour Magne
Climbing to the top of the park, Mont Cavalier, you will find La Tour Magne. The Romans built it around 15 BC as a part of the 6 kilometre long Roman ramparts surrounding Nîmes. The tower used to be the highest point in the city. Emperor Augustus chose this very strategic location to overlook the plains and nearby trade routes. La Tour Magne is the last remaining vestige of the city’s fortifications and can also be visited. Climb the 32 metre high tower to get a fantastic view over Nîmes and its surroundings. This day in Nîmes might have given you the taste for it, andthere is so much more to discover. Not to mention the many festivals organised yearly. I know that I’m coming back soon to explore further. And you?
