Most people will visit Carcassonne for its magnificent medieval citadel. But there is more! On a beautiful sunny day, I decided to cross the Pont Vieux. This is how I discovered the Saint-Louis Bastide, situated on the left bank of the Aude River. It’s also known as the ‘Ville Basse’ or the lower city, being approximately 150 meters below the famous La Cité. And like Carcassonne’s citadel, the bastide is a medieval town built in 1247 under the reign of Louis IX. Here are seven reasons why you should go and see La Bastide of Carcassonne:
1. Pont Vieux
Of course, you can start your visit in the bastide itself. However, you can also prolong your Carcassonne exploration by leaving the citadel. Via the Porte d’Aude, you will easily find your way to the Pont Vieux, which makes a grand entrance to the lower city. This is what I did, and thanks to the signs everywhere, I didn’t get lost for a change… The Old Bridge was constructed in the 14th century and was the only connection between the Saint-Louis Bastide and the citadel until the 19th century. Nowadays, the bridge is pedestrian-only, so I paraded my way into the second medieval town of Carcassonne.
2. Portail des Jacobins
I was pleasantly surprised when I arrived at La Bastide. It is small and cosy and perfectly walkable. I took my time to stroll around while admiring some beautiful and colourful facades. There were some lovely shops too, mainly on the Rue de Verdun and its surrounding side streets. From the Rue Courtejaire, I walked to the Portail des Jacobins (with a great restaurant on the outside: Brasserie à 4 Temps). The bastide used to be fortified, and you could only enter through one of the four entrance gates. Le Portail des Jacobins is the only gate left. Going through the gate, I spotted a tiny remnant of the original city wall. As you can see, history still flows through the streets.
3. Saint-Michel Cathedral
Continuing my stroll, I arrived at the Saint-Michel Cathedral. Built in the 14th century, it was only recognised as a cathedral in 1803 when the Basilique Saint-Nazaire in the citadel passed its title on to the Saint-Michel church. A fire seriously damaged the cathedral in 1849, but the architect Viollet-le-Duc who came to the rescue. In the 19th century, it was he who renovated many important French monuments like the Mont Saint-Michel and the Notre Dame in Paris. The Saint-Michel Cathedral was the first monument to be renovated as part of Viollet-le-Duc’s grand oeuvre: La Cité de Carcassonne.
4. Saint-Vincent Church Bell Tower
From the Saint-Michel Cathedral I went to the Saint-Vincent church on the Rue du Dr Albert Tomey. From the outside, it looks like an ordinary church, but the good thing is that you can climb up the tower (2.50 euros per person). 232 steps (don’t forget to count!) will bring you to the top of the 54-meter-high bell tower. Unfortunately, it was closed when I was there (the church is open daily from 14h30 to 19h00), so I have to go back for that apparently amazing view overlooking the bastide.
5. Place Carnot
All in all, I had walked for quite a bit by this time and started feeling a little hungry. What timing… just as I arrived at the Place Carnot right at this very moment! Getting there made me completely understand why La Place Carnot is a favourite meeting place for the Carcassonnais. This square is a lively and bustling square full of restaurants and a beautiful Neptune fountain made of marble. I found the perfect shaded lunch spot, and I felt very French for a moment.
6. Musée des Beaux-Arts
My last stop of the day was the Musée des Beaux Arts at the very start of Rue de Verdun. Situated in the former Présidial, the museum’s collection consists of Occitan paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, as well as some faience and tapestry. You can visit the museum for free, and it is the perfect stop to cool down and soak up some culture. Reflecting on my day at the bastide, I can only conclude that I should have visited it long before. And I’m planning to return for reason 7, as I missed the Tuesday/Thursday/Saturday market on Place Carnot. I hope this post gives you enough reasons to cross Le Pont Vieux, too!
