When you think of the south of France, the sun and sea likely come to mind. However, there are also charming little towns to visit near the beach for a break from sunbathing, such as Marseillan. This little town is a few steps from the Mediterranean Sea and sits along the shores of the Étang de Thau. The lively harbour with the sound of singing masts will draw you in immediately. Sit at one of the bustling restaurants, enjoying a plate of fresh oysters straight from the lagoon and a glass of Picpoul, and you will understand the southern French joie de vivre.
Oboes and Drums
Historians believe the Greeks founded Marseillan around 500 BC. Romans and Visigoths followed, before the town became part of the French kingdom under Pepin the Short in 761. Now fast forward to the beating heart of the town: the harbour. As early as 1642, King Louis XIII moored here to the sound of oboes and drums. And in the early 18th century, the port took on the permanent form we see today. It was a golden age thanks to fishing and the wine trade. After the Second World War, trade declined. But tourism soon filled this gap, replacing fishing boats and merchant barges with pleasure boats and sailing ships. Today, the marina remains a hub of activity, while the surrounding houses stand as quiet witnesses to days long past.
Day in Marseillan
It’s easy to spend a day in Marseillan. Although the summer months are the town’s peak season, with many day-trippers parading along the quays, spring and autumn are also wonderful times to visit. Let me share my recent experience, which began, of course, at the harbour. More specifically, I started at the square in front of it, aptly called Place Noilly. It’s named after France’s oldest vermouth producer, Noilly Prat, another good reason to visit Marseillan. The first thing that caught my eye was the steel sculpture by artist Medhi Melhaoui representing a wave. As I strolled along the ‘quais’, I discovered more art pieces, including the oyster shell statues at the end of the harbour. And walking back into town revealed work by Jean Denant on the left side of the Château du Port. Can you guess what it represents?
Markets Days
After lunch (oysters and Picpoul, obviously), I continued my exploration and headed to the town centre. While it isn’t large, I found some delightful shops and boutiques, several restaurants that I noted for future visits (see below for paid subscribers), and two covered markets. The newer market, shown in the picture below, dates back to the 1930s and is open on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. And is still active for daily shopping on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. The older covered market on the Place Carnot dates from the 12th century and now hosts the terrace of restaurant La Table d’Emilie (yes, I put this on my wishlist). It’s worth timing your visit for a Tuesday, which is market day in the heart of town. And during the summer months, there’s also a weekly evening market on Thursdays at the harbour. You see, in Marseillan, it feels like every day is a little holiday.
